london

Returning to London was complicated. Perhaps I should have taken more time to run around—back to my old flat, let’s say—by myself. Without a doubt I should have traveled to London sooner. London with John and boys wasn’t bad, but it was different, and I was unprepared for that. So I found myself feeling bittersweet and dispirited, on occasion. But, more often, I was overwhelmed by all the people. Has London always been such a zoo? I don’t remember the crowds, but I think I knew how to avoid them. 

But we pushed through the tourists and the shoppers to show the boys this vibrant city, which was a key scene to my formative years.

We spent six hours in the British Museum. We saw everything we wanted to see (Rosetta Stone [above], mummies, Lewis Chessmen, Sutton Hoo warrior helmet, Elgin Marbles [top]), though countless treasures remain for a future visit.

Retail therapy at Persephone Books. I wish I had taken a picture of the table that displayed the staff's current favorite books—"Books We Wish We Had Published."

How do the Royal Guards keep their heads up? Those hats must weigh 50 pounds. The Tower of London held treasure for all—crown jewels for me, an armory for the boys.

One afternoon, on our way back to the hotel, I got off the tube at an earlier stop and made my way to Harrod's. The food halls are simply amazing—a labyrinthine assemblage of rooms with treats beyond your wildest dreams. Oyster bar, soda counter, pizza bar, Spanish ham bar, bakery, produce, candied fruit and roasted nut vendor, chocolates and other confections, plus a candy store, and more. 

The boys made their own retail pilgrimage to Soccer Express on Carnaby Street for jerseys, which was only fitting since the World Cup was on while we were in England. We watched as many afternoon matches as we could, from the comfort of pubs, which are family-friendly until 7 p.m.

Most London meals were taken in upscale chains, such as Wagamama (noodle shop), Masala Zone (Indian), and Pret a Manger (sandwiches). They were clean and bright (decor and flavors), conveniently located, and affordable (London is expensive and all the restaurants on my List were prohibitively expensive).

I will always love London.